We understand that pet care can be confusing at times. To help alleviate your concerns, we have compiled a list of common questions below.
If you have any additional questions that cannot be answered below, please give us a call or send us an email.
We recommend using preventative 12 months/year. This will provide protection against heartworm and help prevent intestinal parasites. With our fluctuating weather patterns, we simply can’t predict when we will see mosquitos and other issues.
The flea life cycle is such that new fleas hatch for several months. Therefore, you may see fleas even when treating with a topical product. If the infestation is not too great, you will eventually take care of the problem with continued topical applications. If the infestation is significant, you may find it necessary to treat your house in addition to all your animals. (Remember that it is necessary to treat all animals in the house even if some do not go outside… fleas travel in on one animal, drop eggs in the house and hatching fleas then infect other animals in the house.)
Due to the flea life cycle, you can have fleas hatching in your home year round. Ticks only need temperatures to reach 40 degrees to be active. With increasing prevalence of tick-borne disease, good tick prevention is key.
A rabid bat can enter any home and bite your cat. It is also the law!
The annual physical is done to detect any disease process that can affect your pet’s quality of life. Problems which are detected early have the best chance for successful treatment. Remember that humans should have an annual exam and our life expectancy is much greater than that of our animals. In terms of an animal’s life expectancy, an annual exam is minimal (that is why we recommend that senior pets be seen every six months).
A fecal sample is tested to search for intestinal parasites. These parasites can be a danger to both the pet and its family, and it is possible and easy for any of our pets to become a host.
Each year we see an increase in the number of ticks in Vermont and a corresponding increase in the incidents of Lyme Disease, both in animals and in people.
We don’t board pets on a regular basis. We occasionally offer boarding for animals that need specific medical treatments (fluid therapy, insulin injections, etc.) Please call for details if your pet requires specific medical care.
We have 3 indoor runs for larger dogs and several indoor cages for smaller dogs and cats. Dogs are walked in the yard as needed and cats are kept in cages with a litterbox and blanket unless they are recovering from surgery (special care is needed). We do not routinely hospitalize sick pets overnight as there is not a staff member in the building. We recommend BEVS for 24 hour care.
Our surgeries are done Monday, Tuesday, and Thursday. Pets are dropped off between 7:30 and 8:00 am. Surgeries are performed throughout the day and the order of procedures is determined the morning of surgery. Discharge time varies between 2:00 pm and 5:00 pm.
We accept Visa, MasterCard, cash and personal checks. We require full payment at the time that services are rendered. However, if you have a large bill and need to make payments, ask us about a “Care Credit” application. It can often be approved that day.
Unless it is an emergency, in which case you should still call us to let us know you’re on your way, we see patients by appointment only. This helps us keep wait times to a minimum on your end, while allowing us to take our time and give every animal our full attention.
Oh No, your pet got Skunked! NOW WHAT?
FIRST THINGS FIRST: DON’T let a skunked animal in your home before you remove the skunk oils!
Skunk spray is an oily substance that is almost impossible to remove from furniture or rugs and the first instinct a dog or cat has is to try to rub the substance off its own coat onto something else. Do not let an animal in until you have removed the oily substance. The smell may linger, but if the oil is gone, it won’t transfer as easily to your home furnishings!
WHAT TO DO:
While the old remedy is tomato juice, there are much more efficient ways of dealing with skunk oil.
A formula of:
- one quart hydrogen peroxide (use a fresh bottle, hydrogen peroxide degrades over time)
- 1/4 cup baking soda and
- one teaspoon liquid soap
seems to work. If you don’t have these ingredients immediately at hand, at least use a lemon dish detergent to cut the oils.
We have a product, “Skunk Off” which we have found to be as good as any in helping to remove the residual odor, but whenever it rains for several months, you’re going to smell that odor to some extent on any wet fur that got a “direct hit.”
While we love all our animal patients, when they get skunked, we’re happy they belong to you! We will not groom or bathe an animal who has been recently skunked at least until you have eliminated the “fresh” oil from the coat. (Dr. Barningham brought his own dogs in one night and the hospital smelled for at least two weeks! Now he’s not even allowed to bathe his skunked dogs in the hospital. Phew!)
We hope you never have to experience a skunking!